CHOOSING YOUR METAL
The ring you wear every day will be worn for a lifetime. The stone draws the eye - but the metal carries the weight of that promise. It determines how the piece ages, how it feels against the skin, and how it holds the stone you've chosen for decades to come.
Selecting the right metal is both a practical and a deeply personal decision. In this guide, I walk you through the precious metals I work with - their character, their qualities, and how to choose the one that's right for you
GOLD & KARATS
Gold in its purest form is a remarkably soft metal. To make it suitable for fine jewellery, it is alloyed - combined with other metals to increase its strength and durability. The proportion of pure gold within that alloy is measured in karats.
The karat scale runs from 1 to 24, with 24 karat representing pure gold. In fine jewellery, 18 karat gold is the standard - 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts strengthening alloy. It offers an ideal balance between richness of colour, structural integrity, and longevity.
9 karat gold, while harder, contains significantly less pure gold - just 9 parts in 24 - and tends to have a paler, less rich appearance. For a piece intended for everyday wear and a lifetime of significance, 18k is the considered choice.
Karat vs Carat - An Important Distinction
A Note on Silver
Silver is a beautiful metal with a long history in jewellery making, and it remains a wonderful choice for certain pieces. For an engagement ring however, it is not something I recommend. Silver is significantly softer than gold or platinum, making it prone to scratching and distortion with daily wear. Over time it tarnishes, wears down and can slowly lose its shape. For a ring made to be worn every day and passed down through generations, gold or platinum will serve you far better.
YELLOW GOLD
Yellow gold is the most traditional and enduring choice for engagement rings, and remains the most popular metal in fine jewellery today. Its warmth is remarkably versatile - sitting beautifully alongside any stone, whether a vivid sapphire, a rich ruby, or a brilliant white diamond. In 18 karat, yellow gold strikes the ideal balance between purity and strength. It holds a polish beautifully and requires no plating or special maintenance. It is a metal that wears well, ages gracefully, and carries the weight of a lifetime with quiet confidence. For engagement rings and fine jewellery, 18 karat yellow gold remains the traditional and most widely preferred choice - and for good reason
WHITE GOLD
White gold is created by alloying gold with naturally pale metals such as palladium. In its natural state, 18 karat white gold has a soft grey tone. To achieve the bright white finish most people associate with it, the surface is coated with rhodium plating. This plating gradually wears over time and will need periodic re-plating to maintain its appearance. For clients seeking a white metal, I generally recommend platinum as the more considered long-term choice. That said, 9 karat white gold can be a practical option where budget is a primary consideration.
ROSE GOLD
Rose gold gets its distinctive warm, pinkish tone from the copper alloy within it. The higher the copper content, the deeper and more rose-like the colour. It has enjoyed periods of great popularity in fine jewellery and remains a beautiful choice for the right client and the right stone. If rose gold is a metal you are drawn to, it is something we can explore together during your consultation.
PLATINUM
Platinum is a naturally white precious metal and stands apart from the gold family entirely. It does not require rhodium plating to achieve its colour - what you see is the metal in its truest form, and it will remain that way throughout the life of the ring.
It is also significantly denser than gold, giving it a distinctive weight and exceptional strength. For clients considering a white metal, platinum is the choice I recommend most. It wears better over time, holds stone settings more securely, and requires far less maintenance than white gold.
Platinum does come at a higher price point than gold, largely due to its density and the additional skill required to work with it at the bench. For a ring that will be worn every day for a lifetime, it is an investment that is well worth considering.
For clients who love the look of white metal but are working within a tighter budget, 9 karat white gold can be a practical alternative - though for those weighing up between 18 karat white gold and platinum, platinum is the stronger and more enduring choice.
BEGIN YOUR BESPOKE JOURNEY
Choosing the right metal is just one of the many decisions we will work through together. From your first conversation through to collection, I guide you through every detail - ensuring the ring you receive is one that will be treasured for generations.